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#21
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Oxidization and Clear coat failure are two very different things!
If it's flaking/cracking in areas, it's a sign the clear coat has failed. Not repairable, though you may be able to finely polish areas to get some sort of shine to it (It won't have any UV protection and will fade in a fairly short period of time). Clear coat failure (worth a read): The Clearcoat Failure Photo Archive Read this to see stages of temporarily repairing oxidized paint: The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints - Auto Geek Online Auto Detailing Forum
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#22
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About time you joined in Adz.
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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers" |
#23
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Scroll up
Happy to offer advice where I can, though have been extraordinarily busy @ the dealership over the past month. Rarely do I get a chance to jump on (cannot do so at the new workplace). OP was sent a PM. There may be some short term options in order to get some shine into the panels. A hand polish with something like Meguiars ColorX would be the simplest and cheapest. Using a polisher and hitting it with a compound is not ideal if you don't know what you're doing. Could take of what minimal paintwork there is left.
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#24
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Some inspiration, this was done using several fine passes of polish (VERY minor abrasive) then several coats of paint sealant applied over the top.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by Adz; 16-12-2013 at 11:53 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Adz For This Useful Post: | ||
rada (17-12-2013) |
#25
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Thanks very much everyone. I'm keen to give the suggestions a try and see how things go. I will certainly try and go easy on it to get the best results. I am treating this as a learning experience so I can at least do a better job of maintaining our other cars. Cheers to you all.
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#26
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Quote:
I hope you are not thinking a "metal cutting disk" with the angle grinder. The cutting disk im talking about is the foam pad. Its what you use to remove the orange peal effect from a freshly painted car. You really should have experience before using them though. I have been using them near on 12 years now. I did how ever, the first time i used one, cut right through the paint to bare metal, so the previous comment someone made was right and i should of mentioned experience is necessary. How ever, once you have mastered it, you can keep your paint looking like it did from day one....
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STi Ver 6 | 2.1L Stroker | 418whp | 11.5 @ 199kph | Not fast enough dammit! |
#27
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Last time I checked I didn't have stupid tattooed on my forehead. ^^^^
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[COLOR=Black]Liberty GT Spec B tuned 240 HP & 372 Nm at the hubs.[/COLOR] "Instead of banning high performance cars - ban low performance drivers" |
#28
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My 4WD after a cut and polish. I wish I had a before pic to show you but you get the idea. This car is heavily used off road and normally has scratches and pin striping all the way up the side.
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STi Ver 6 | 2.1L Stroker | 418whp | 11.5 @ 199kph | Not fast enough dammit! |
#29
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I don't have any advise to offer but what I can say is GX-REX sorted the problem with the loss of clear coat on my WRX. He did an amazing job of it too. His advice at the time to re paint the whole side of the car has also saved me more headaches.
Last edited by KevDogg; 17-12-2013 at 10:23 PM. |
#30
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Thanks Kev. Will contact GX-Rex to see if he would be prepared to take a look. Unfortunately repaint is not an option.
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Tags |
cut, paintwork restoration, polish, respray |
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