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#11
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sigh ive been reading a few forums and many people have had similar issues with no real cause / cure for some people. it could be soo many things im not sure how we're going to diagnose it without going one by one and possibly spending so much money :S
so it could be the afm, air filter, bov, ecu, fuel line, fuel pump, throttle body etc.. |
#12
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BoV isnt too hard, all you need to do is pull it apart and clean it. There isnt too much to them. I wonder if a bit of upper engine cleaner wouldnt go astray either.
As for the air filter it depends what you are running atm as to how hard it is to change. AFM will most likley not be the cause if you just replaced it providing it is secured properly and is out of reach of oil filters. Fuel pump, fuel lines, ecu and throtts most likley have to be diagnosed by a workshop id say.
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Honda Hannspree Edition CBR 600 RR - SOLD Yamaha FZ1N - Purchased |
#13
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Sounds like a fuel issue to me. I would replace the fuel filter (about $50 for a genuine one) and see if that helps. From memory the fuel filter is meant to be replaced every 50k's but I dont think this is anywhere near enough.
Start with the cheap stuff and move on from there.
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Losing is worse than death. You have to live with losing.... |
#14
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Fuel filter was the issue. Apparantly it was too small and dirty so it was being starved of fuel. Car running great after that
cept for today 2 weeks on. The same problem.. happened again. I give up, someone buy my car thanks. |
#15
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I had a similar problem a few years back on a VL commodore. It would start out slowly by the tacho bouncing a bit irratically then the car would start to stutter and jerk, mildly at first then worse. Everytime i changed something it fixed it but only for a few weeks, i changed, leads, sparkplugs optical pickup in the dizzy, fuel filter etc. It went on for months, i was fukn ropable. I never took it to a mechanic but a mate that is one had a look and was just as baffeled as me...i wouldnt call him a gurp mechanic though.
Anyhow i found the problem, a loose terminal on the coil, everytime i replaced anything i checked all the conections were on tight incase i had knocked them off installing anything and i would push the conector on which would give me another 2 weeks of hassel free driving. I put a new female spade connector on and the problem went away. I was stoked but fukn pissed i didnt think to look at it sooner and before i spent a couple of hundred bucks on parts. So maybe your problem is an earthing/wiring issue? Last edited by Bear69; 24-03-2007 at 07:29 AM. |
#16
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Hmm... I just got to thinking. I recently had a similar problem in the last 6 months. Had my AFM replaced, got a new fuel pump, was about to get the fuel filter replaced when Abdus at Tenagah said he was talking to this electrician bloke who said the problem might be electronic related rather than fuel related. Instead of getting the fuel filter replaced, Abdus had the electrician look at it and he found the problem.
Then Abdus was explaining something about it and the only word I understood was 'coils.' Had all four of them replaced and never had the problem again. I drive a 95 wrx so possibly the very same issue.
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Speed doesn't kill. Suddenly becoming stationary does! |
#17
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Yeah Abdus is looking after my car aswell. He was pretty surprised to hear it started happening again, I will suggest he look at the coils thanks guys, it seemed to have solved some similar issues for people in the US aswell.
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#18
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update: they eliminated any fuel related issue being the problem. they seem to think its a ecu related issue (unichip). what's the best to do from here? is it possible to remove the ecu and just go back to stock or is it better to re-tune the unichip? A replacement ECU would be the best but considering im broke i dont think this is feasible atm.
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#19
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If you cant get the unichip retuned in the near future then go back to the stock ECU by removing the unichip. But dont drive hard.
It should be a simple matter of pluggin in the unichip when you get a chance to get it tuned properly. Although Ideally, Id suggest ditching the unichip and getting a Link or Power FC.
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RS Liberty - Because WRX's are only good for parts... |
#20
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Quote:
Try this first m8 be for you go broke!! it may be worth a try. Is the flat spot still there? With all that water and moisture under the bonnet early on in the peace, corrosion may be the problem within the throttle body position sensor, sending false readings to the ECU. Have some one have a look at it or mark it yourself with a couple of scratch marks on the TPS casing and on the throttle body housing. Remove and open up inspect for any corrosion if evident spray with a quality contact spray blow dry and reassemble. If corrosion is to much replace and reset ECU Last edited by Nails; 05-04-2007 at 05:44 PM. |
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frustration |
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