^^^

Your forgetting one thing, clearances etc are totally different on a factory block compared to a block that is built...

You cant compare a factory build to an aftermarket build imo.

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I'm a jockey kunts...

[QUOTE=trainwrex]u dont run full synthetic until atleast 10,000kms..

what I am really surprised about here is that someone expects a fully built near on 600whp race motor to last more than 10000km.
... and then switch to synthetic oil.

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[QUOTE=type25]
If you read a little closer i did say supposed to be semi-synthetic... And even though it makes that sort of power, that power is not used all the time, rarely in fact until it goes to the track...

So it should last on everyday normal stress free driving...

Deleted wrong person

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I'm a jockey kunts...

[QUOTE=trainwrex]Sorry Tino, but I think you have me confused with someone else,
I try to avoid working on porkas, and I don't have either a stock or 190k 2.0ltr motor.

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[QUOTE=type25]
Yeah my bad the avatars look similar....


But anyway the question still remains... Put ur answer to it

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I'm a jockey kunts...

[QUOTE=trainwrex]Ok, in brief...
we should agree that race built engines are highly stressed (under race conditions).
because of this they are generally built looser, (with larger clearances), so that they spin easier and have less chance of nipping up.
... because of these looser clearances and the greater stresses that are under they will generally wear out quicker/ need refreshing on a regular basis.
This is commonly done with race engines to prevent catastrophic failure, (and a whole heap of scrap metal).

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[QUOTE=trainwrex]Got something to say to me ?.......feel free and say it......

BTW I emailed Porsche on your behalf advising them that running mobil1 in their cars is wrong and that according to Michael South their new yet to be released DFI engines would be better on Mineral based oil. It appears that a company who spent 20 Million Euro's (just on the inlet manifold) on the up coming engine family, to be utilised until the year 2016, shouldn't have made such a fundamental mistake in their choice of engine lubricants.

Meh What would they KNOW?

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[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

^^^^^^

FAGGGGGGGGG....

As i keep harping and will do again and again A STOCK from factory engine has different clearances to a hand built engine, therefore have different oil requirements..

going from mineral to sythnetic is one of those areas where there is no real data around... Im going the safe side, but change my oil fairly regulary so shouldnt be an issue either way...

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I'm a jockey kunts...

[QUOTE=type25]
Agree agree to that point. Most engines are generally built looser, but mine however is built fairly tightly only 2.5 thou clearances.

Refreshing is a common occurance when driven hard, but i can not see the need when driving the car normally that a refresh is needed.

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I'm a jockey kunts...

YAWN... I grow weary reading this thread.

The answer is simple...
1. Your engine is NOT factory... So don't use FACTORY oil. You have
obviously made you mind up on this and will not be swayed.
2. Your engine is HAND built... So use some HAND oil... KY will do nicely.

Blah, blah, blah... hand-built... blah, blah, blah... hand-job.

P.S. I don't know anything about oil, but want to stir trainwrex up
coz he won't be able to resist the temptation to tell me something
about oil too

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