Ok guys, fitted my battery isolator last night, brought home a battery tonight just to check it out.

Fitted up, isolator and ignition off and everything off.

Switched the isolator on and all good, except that with the ignition off, the dash warning lights came on?
Abs, check engine, handbrake, fuel light and airbag.

I'm cool with the reasons for these lights, but why would they come on without the ignition on? Even with the key out it occurs...

I'm stumped. I have changed anything than normal apart from putting the switch in series isolating the battery feed.

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Wide Body GC8 WRX
#217 Street Cars WA
Full 04 STi drivetrain
08 JDM 207
Garrett 3076 xtr

Sounds strange. Every isolator i have fitted to mine spec vehicles i used the battery negative cable. Only thing i can think of is the ecu is still holding power in the capacitors. Should only be for 30 seconds or so.

Yes agree with ^^
At work I always isolate the (-) side
Sounds like the capacitors holding voltage as said above
Have you Tried leaving it on for an hour or two and see if they turn off?

The capacitors haven't been charged for 12months...

Sounds like it's a earthing issue as I don't have the engine in etc... Will have a look at it when everything gets joined up...

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Wide Body GC8 WRX
#217 Street Cars WA
Full 04 STi drivetrain
08 JDM 207
Garrett 3076 xtr

If you have installed the isolator in series with the positive battery cable it will not kill the engine.

In parallel it wouldn't work. In series is the same as in line meaning you break the +ve side of the terminal.

Personal preference for which side you isolate. Both work. Some argue for -ve termination first. However this relates more to the use of tools when tightening the terminals and the risk of making earth contact with a spanner while working on the clamp.

As noted above, I'd suggest its a ground not yet connected.

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MY00 WRX. 89 Prelude. 99 CRV

In series with the main fuse line. Starter and alternator running to battery, battery to switch, switch to fuse.

That make sense?

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Wide Body GC8 WRX
#217 Street Cars WA
Full 04 STi drivetrain
08 JDM 207
Garrett 3076 xtr

Sorry Doug, but why not.

Providing there is nothing attached to the +ve terminal of the battery apart from the isolator, and any ancillaries attach to the isolated side of the isolator, (ie in series) the car will have no battery power, removing the power to the ECU, electric fuel pump etc. (1HZ landcruiser another matter)

If the isolator was connected to the negative side it would still work (kill the engine), unless the bonnet, or other body part, is pushed in at touching the -ve terminal. shorting out the isolator.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

That maybe the problem, +ve to one side of the switch, the other starter, alternator fuses etc, so when the switch is open everything is dead.

(I'm not an auto sparky, but this is how I expect it would be wired to isolate the cars electrics from the battery, and a potential source of energy which could cause sparks and source of ignition)

Thinking as I type, starter may need to be connected to the battery depending on the amp rating of the switch, not sure what either are rated to, and possibly the starter may draw more current than the switch is rated to.

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Race Torque Dyno 399 NM, 248Kw @ 20PSI

Straight roads are for fast cars, twisty roads are for fast drivers. I have or am neither.

http://tttmsp.smugmug.com/

You need to interrupt the smaller of the two cables (Power feed) off your positive battery terminal only - the one that feeds the main fuse box.

OR you can install your switch between the ECU and the Main Relay, doing that cuts power to the injectors and fuel pump.

If you join the starter cable and the smaller cable to the same end of your isolator you will isolate the battery from the alternator..... But if the engine is running when the isolator is switched to open, the alternator will power everything through the smaller feed cable and without the battery there to act as a ballast - possibly popping important electronics in your car.

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