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#1
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Version 5 EJ207 rebuild advice
hey all,
so it looks like ive done a bottom end on the 99 sti. lots of knocking and tapping after a hard drive last night with the new boost conroller in. im still a bit confused as i was running around 1.3bar -18.8 psi. i didnt think that would damage an ej207??? anyway it doesnt matter i suppose...now i need some advice on a rebuild i want to be able to run 20psi daily, it has a td05.20g, a front mount, yellow top injectors(stock?) and upgraded fuel pump. everything else looks stock. dont want to do heads if i dont have to. power figures not to fussed on. between 300-330awhp and ill be happy. ill do it myself, i would like some advice from others what they have done, and also any weak points on the v5 ej207 that might need upgrading while its out. Thanks alot everyone
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Owner/Operator of Rikkis Auto Electrics 'Like' me on Facebook and check out all my installs under albums. |
#2
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How many kms on the motor?
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"ALLPAWS" 2014 WRX RS 40 - modding very slowly. 2002 Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo R - Ralliart Edition (daily) 2010 Nissan GT-R - when the Missus let's me drive it :) Crotch Rockets . . . |
#3
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Are you running aftermarket or stock ECU?
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#4
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18 psi on a big td05 (20G) is very different to 18psi on a vf28/29 with a stock ecu - I'm not surprised it popped Version 5's were Dok-Doking themselves in stock form when new due to 100ron Jap factory tune - what were you thinking?
300-330hp at the hubs reliably will need some decent cams, a decent ecu and either a stock factory 207 bottom end or you can roll your own using aftermarket forged pistons, and ACL race bearings etc. A better oil pump (Late model Dual AVCS type) along with Arp case bolts, ARp head studs should be added for longterm reliability. I'd be more worried about your gearbox's reliability at over 300hp at the hubs.
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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER] [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER] |
#5
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Quote:
using the Perth-WRX mobile app |
#6
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He Has a possumlink
using the Perth-WRX mobile app |
#7
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i have 6 speed and r180 + GD sti driveline. 170,000 kms on engine
possome bourne ecu but am changing the VIPEC from my other wrx thanks for the advice. now you mention it i dont know why i overlooked the boost difference from the bigger turbo compared to stock. jacob thinks i should do cams while its out, any advice on cams anyone? nothing too big i still want a (kind of) economical engine and smooth idle.
__________________
Owner/Operator of Rikkis Auto Electrics 'Like' me on Facebook and check out all my installs under albums. |
#8
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Kelford 262's if you want a smooth idle with a good midrange punch and better high rpm breathing.
Chances are your v5 heads will be cracked around the spark plug threads (most do) - go with GD wrx heads (bigger ports than V5/6) and use your current shim under buckets to convert the GD wrx heads to shim under. I run Brian crower 272's and still get around 500km per tank average - it's all down to how much you are prepared to spend on tuning & dyno time.
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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER] [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER] Last edited by Rossco; 09-03-2014 at 09:23 PM. |
#9
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Best thing about cams is the chunky idle Will help a bit in the top end but not really necessary unless u r chasing really big hp figures. Build a strong block then boost the f&%k out of it! . . . Seriously not that simple but u get the idea
__________________
"ALLPAWS" 2014 WRX RS 40 - modding very slowly. 2002 Mitsubishi Airtrek Turbo R - Ralliart Edition (daily) 2010 Nissan GT-R - when the Missus let's me drive it :) Crotch Rockets . . . |
#10
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Quote:
The Foz motor won't be to different to his using the Perth-WRX mobile app |
Tags |
advice, ej207, rebuild, version |
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