What is wrong with you lot?
Where have I posted that old shims were re-used???

I bought Pmu shims from them to go with the pads I bought from them and fitted by them...
They supplied and fitted the wrong part and I have every right to complain.

Ffs I wouldn't be complaining otherwise!

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06 STi: 337hp @23psi on E85...
06 STi: 309hp @22psi on 98ron...

The shims that were fitted were not 'Wrong' - they may look different to the new ones but if they loosely fitted the pad retaining pins and covered where the pistons contacted the pads then they were fine - it's not rocket science. So stop banging on about them ffs!

Not worth the effort really as you don't seem to get it.

You know it all so I won't bother to reply to anything you post any more.

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[CENTER][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/CENTER]
[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Built Ej207: Semi-closed RA Cases - Wiseco Forgies - Manley rods - BC 272 cams - GDA Heads - billet f/whl - Vi-pec - WbO2 - 800cc Yellow tops - TD05-20G - 409Hp ath @ 1.75bar on E85[/COLOR][/CENTER]

an interesting fact

I get a long great with Rossco, Scary, XT43, hell most of the P-WRX crew.

But I/we all have a problem with you....

maybe, just maybe you are the fucking problem.

that is the answer to your question.

So either

or

log out.

Love and regards

Tristan

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[I]Personal chef[/I]

Mate what people are trying to say mainly is that the shim cant cause uneven wear of the rotor . Even without shims if there is no knock off this cannot happen . Even with knock off for the amount of use and time since your brakes were done It really doesn't make sense. I think the disc wear is more like due to the discs possibly being slightly warped when machined down .

The high spots being machined down to make the surface true again probably resulted in your slots being greatly reduced in depth then using an aggressive pad in the time you have had them done last time has warn these down enough to be missing in some spots .

After them being machined you wouldn't notice the lack in depth unless you looked closely .Getting brakes hot in the wet and having them either cooled quickly by puddles or even washing the car without letting them cool can cause the warping.

Using the street/track pad for everyday driving can easily cause glazing due to the compounds not getting hot enough to work properly causing your noise. Using OEM shims aftermarket shim etc as I'm sure many on here do on their cars with aftermarket pads is not a problem. If they are fitted correctly and don't create knock off or pad drag.

Using brake pad anti squeal when fitting pads generally stops the excessive squeal 99.9 % on street pads. On street / track or track pads used for street use especially stop start everyday driving. The pads will squeal sometimes depending on the type of pad can squeal all the time . These pads are not designed for everyday stop start driving and trying to get a compromise can be very hard.

People on here have said this time and again and yes have even said they don't have squealing using these pads but . No one drives the same and travels the same as you everyone is different . Id take the problem you have had on the chin as a learning curve . Possible look at different less agressive pad combo for the type of driving you do .

I run two sets of pads even tho my track pads are for track/street . This gives me durability and comfort in traffic . It also prolongs the life of my discs. Softer pads for the street seem not to groove my discs as well so when I put my track pads in they have a good contact patch to bed in with. If you run 4 pots or better changing pads is a piece of piss and takes no time at all. The way I look at it is im going to flush my fluid before a track run anyway so its no pain to pull a retainer and two pins to change my pads.

The workshop that you went to I think did absolutely nothing wrong even by machining your discs if slightly warped . As long as they were within minimum thickness they saved you some money from having to outlay for some new discs at the time. Sometimes no one is to blame and you just need to learn from it.

Sorry for the essay but for fucks sake !!!!!!!!!

I run the HC+'s and without brake lubricant they will squeak.

Rather than having workshops mess you around, do it yourself at home so you know it is done right.

I use this stuff I got from the USA:


Basically rub it onto front of the pad and the shim at the back and let it soak in for 24 hours. If the pads are already in the car, put some on the rotor above the pad and slightly roll forward.

By the next day, pad squeal is all gone! Win win.

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[COLOR="Gray"]550Nm off a 2L... Just wish it was in the dak dak...[/COLOR]

Man...I accepted all you guys said...yes rotor fucked not the fault of the shims...no issues there. Why is it so hard to just accept it when I say that plain mess up of parts has also occured, which is the cold hard truth and that I have every right to question it as well as being refunded for that part, what should I say that I messed up parts when they did... have some slack.... Thanks for the help, I mean it.

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06 STi: 337hp @23psi on E85...
06 STi: 309hp @22psi on 98ron...

straight to the pool room...

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Funny looking German Subaru

Derp

I'm going to stick a shim down some cunts throat soon.

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Fuck your signature

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[COLOR=RoyalBlue][B][I]Titanium Reinforced[/I][/B]
MY00 Impreza WRX | MY11 Liberty GT Premium[/COLOR]