Ringland anyone? - Page 16 - Perth-WRX.com

amtrapid · #**151** 24-09-2015, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bram

anti surge inlet has absolutely nothing to do with letting air into the turbo. Its all about letting air out of the turbo during surge conditions. Ie when the turbo is spinning fast, but the engine air demand is low. (like when youve just boosted hard, then you close the throttle) if you look at a compressor map, the left most edge is the area of compressor surge. Having anti surge holes/ports extends that a bit by allowing some of the compressed air to bypass the engine back into the turbo inlet. So your turbo can be spinning fast, but not supplying as much volume of air if needed, without the turbo surging (stalling).

this!!!!!

Bram · #**152** 24-09-2015, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kremer930

I was interested to see the anti surge cover. It is a work of art. I will have to do some research as to how it works as initially I thought that the drilled holes that are common on most anti surge setups were just there to break up laminar friction, similar to the dimples on a golf ball. But after looking at my turbo I can see that air can actually run through the slots and enter on to the compressor wheel from its side.

yep. it lets air from inside the compressor scroll to flow into the inlet. But only when the compressor is 'surging'. usually the air is flung out to the external edge if the compressor scroll as it spins. if it gets 'full' of air then it can 'overflow' back into the intake.

Have a look on the garret info sheets online as there is a really good explanation of how they operate on the garret site.

and yes totoally agree, they make the turbo look extra sexy.

shaunus · #**153** 24-09-2015, 08:46 AM

Change of topic....Without going through 16 pages again...you went with the IAG short block in the end correct?

Kremer930 · #**154** 24-09-2015, 12:11 PM

No. I wish I had an IAG short block. I just went a lightly modified stock motor with a re-oil-phased crank, ACL race bearings, ARP rod bolts and head studs, Manley platinum Pistons. Heads are reconditioned but stock 08.

The turbo, ID1000 injectors and zerolift TGV's are the main source of performance gains.

shaunus · #**155** 24-09-2015, 12:55 PM

No problem. Thanks for clearing that up, it's been on my mind for a few weeks now wondering which route you took. Good luck with it all. Keep at it and I'll be keen to see the results.

Shaun

Kremer930 · #**156** 25-09-2015, 05:07 PM

Compressor outlet modified thanks to a friend. I am really pleased with the result. This pic is before it was bead blasted so looks a little better now.

Bram · #**157** 25-09-2015, 06:06 PM

oh wow. are you sure you dont want to try a spare blouch 3 inch comp housing i have here.

Kremer930 · #**158** 25-09-2015, 06:20 PM

Thanks for the offer. It may have worked but the mamba issues are largely due to a cartridge that is 20-30mm thicker than the stock VF unit. If I get stuck then I will give you a yell.

Thanks again.

Kremer930 · #**159** 26-09-2015, 04:18 PM

Turbo in and checked clocking. Adjusted the actuator too so that the pressure nipple cleared brackets.

From a quick test fit it seems like it will all go together now. Unfortunately I will have to wait until I have someone who knows what they are doing to guide and assist.

Kremer930 · #**160** 27-09-2015, 08:53 PM

Another relatively long day at the office....whoops ....workshop.

Turbo in. Custom 3 inch silicone and aluminum intake hose in. Nylon TGVs in. Manifold bolted down...after some fine tuning. Lots of leads to connect. Some spares. I hope that this one is a TGV...

Not sure but couldn't find anything to plug it to. Could be TGV as they are deleted. Air pump is also deleted.

All others are in place.

Fuel system modified except that I need a straight joiner. Will head down tomorrow and grab one.

Some messing around with the brackets around the turbo. Some issues due to the large intake hose and partially also due to the zerolift TGVs not having a couple of mourning spots.

Tmic is in place but the clamp still needs to be repositioned. Should be somewhat simple for tomorrow.

Then battery in, prime it, load in the correct tune for the change of components and ... Hopefully lots of happy engine sounds.