upgrade - Perth-WRX.com

REXLLENT · #1 01-12-2006, 02:04 PM

hey everyone

i am looking at upgrading my turbo from a VF34 to a VF36 twin scroll.

i know u need the header and sump and retune, i was also looking at reversing the manifold as well.

reason why i am doing this is i am trying to get rid of some lag coz i dont hit full boost with the 34 until 4000rpm is that normal.

is it worth spending all this money to get little gain, will i lose a bit of lag or none at all.

help please

thanks

Mister Two · #2 01-12-2006, 02:32 PM

The 36 should hit full boost around 500rpm sooner than the vf34 and you should expect a similar top end.

However, I heard that a reverse manifold is illegal... true? i dont know.

What kind of piping to you have on you FMIC? Any more than 2.5" is overkill and will only increase lag unnecessarily . 2.25" is ideal for subies becuase the turbo outlet is only 2" anyway.

IMPRESHER · #3 01-12-2006, 02:51 PM

Stick with the vf 34 , and then do the reverse manifold and a better tune .

REXLLENT · #4 01-12-2006, 03:11 PM

my intercooler piping is 2.5 inchs, so should i get that down to 2.25. and as far as i know reversing the manifold is legal. unless u know something i dont?. which is good if its true, save me self a sticker hahah

WRXTASY · #5 01-12-2006, 03:26 PM

Cheap option for better throttle response and reduced lag.

Get rid of the FMIC and upgrade the TMIC.

Simple.

Josh · #6 01-12-2006, 03:27 PM

I don't think it's illegal. It will save you some lag. Perhaps look at porting your VF34, ceramic coating that along with your dump pipe and wrapping it.

I think you may lose air con with reverse manifold though.

Mister Two · #7 01-12-2006, 03:57 PM

Also consider rotating the compressor housing on the turbo.

On you set up you have the turbo outlet facing the passenger side suspension tower right? If you rotate the housing the outlet will face the drivers side susp tower and you wont need all the piping that winds around the turbo. This alone will save you at least 50cm of IC piping.

VF34 compressor rotation guide:
http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/...ad.php?t=61188

Mister Two · #8 01-12-2006, 03:58 PM

If you dont have a RSLC account...

Courtesy KDAVID of RSLC

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSLC - kdavid

Hi guys,

I rotated my new VF34 on the weekend - there isn't alot of info up on the forums so I thought I'd post some pictures showing all the things you need to do.

This the basic rotation location as seen from the front.

You have to bend the little oil feed tube that goes from the block to the turbo. DO NOT use anything other than your hands to do this or if you are as lucky as me, one of those little brake line tube benders. You need to put a 45 degree bend in the pipe straight after the banjo on the head, and then another 45 degree bend after the pipe has bent round compressor inlet. Don't even bend it on the edge of a table or anything, otherwise you'll get a sharp kink which will weaken the pipe.

You need to lightly tweak this coolant inlet (?) pipe with your hands to allow the bolt and washer to fit in the spot shown. You then need to test fit this to your up-pipe to makes sure the pipe clears the turbo / up-pipe mounting bracket.

This following 3 pics show the datums that I used to align the compressor housing in the right location. The centre of the compressor housing bolt shown should line up it the edge of the oil inlet banjo thread, ie the bolt centreline should make a tangent with the banjo hole thread.

This pic shows the holes I drilled in the wastegate bracket - note the scribe marks which show how I did it. Because there is some preload in the wastegate spring, you have to hold the wastegate bracket tightly against the compressor housing while marking out the outline. You then need to approximate the PCD that the original holes are on and then mark up where your new holes shoud go. They are a 5 mm bolt and the original holes are 5.5 mm ID but you could comfortably go to about 8 mm if you wanted some freeplay to line it all up properly. I'd recommend measuring twice and drilling once and just getting it right the first time though.

Many thank to Justin (OS) for answering my questions over the phone on Sunday arv when I was doing this, much appreciated.

Cheers,
Dave

REXLLENT · #9 01-12-2006, 04:45 PM

cool thanks for those pics mister two

. 50cm is alot of piping to get rid of

. if i do that and reverse the manifold then i can get rid of some more pipe work hehehe.

tuna · #10 01-12-2006, 05:38 PM

ceramic coat and wrap before you undertake reversing the manifold,
you may also consider a modern GD series manifold and injectors for easier reversing then a my99/00 manifold, as they look horrible reversed.