Seen a bargain - Post it here!! - Page 108 - Perth-WRX.com

RJ999 · #**1071** 17-01-2014, 06:01 PM

I thought the 06/07s had chocolate pistons past 300whp... up to 05s were solid and can be tuned heaps...

Am I missing something that you know, it seems like the norm than the 06-13 ej257 pistons don't handle too much hp? or am I wrong and its ok...

That's not naisoc at all ,thats more rexnet/pwrx reading....naisoc some are even at 400whp with no forgies but then they go boom at some point or their dynos are tuned differently

Quote:

Originally Posted by astralex

When it goes? You realise that there are other cars with significantly more power than you currently have or will have with whatever modifications you plan that have never blown up? You've spent too much time reading NASIOC threads.

Slap Dash · #**1072** 17-01-2014, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Q: Focusing on the EJ205, EJ255, and EJ257 engines, there's been a lot of debate on their strengths and weaknesses and how they were never designed to handle an elevated horsepower level. Is there a secret recipe that can better educate Subie owners on how to build their engines to increase horsepower output and longevity?

A: The two primary weaknesses for the EJ255 & EJ257 are the stock cast hypereutectic pistons and oiling to the rod bearings. The pistons will crack if subjected to knock/detonation events. Obviously, with proper ECU tuning the engine can be kept away from the knock threshold, making the pistons not as much of an issue.

Oiling to the rod bearings is the other primary issue. We typically don't see very many problems with the EJ255 and EJ257 in this respect, but do see it more on the older EJ205. Fundamentally there isn't a big difference between the 2.0L and 2.5L motors in terms of the design of the oiling system but the EJ205 is at least 5 to 9 years old now and some have not been treated to regular maintenance with quality fluids. From the factory, the allowable range of bearing clearance is pretty broad and if you don't use quality synthetic oil and change it often it can lead to problems. The same can be said of any motor, so while not a strong point of the EJs, it should not be painted as a "bad motor" because of it.

We don't believe in "secret formulas," but rather common sense. In the case of making EJ motors last, it boils down to proper ECU tuning by a reputable tuner who clearly understands the logic of the ECU and its interaction with the engine, along with regular maintenance and using quality fluids in the car.

The Truth Behind The Subaru EJ-Series Engines - Tech-Knowledge - Import Tuner Magazine

RJ999 · #**1073** 17-01-2014, 06:23 PM

man this is gold!

We at Crawford Performance will start this by stating the number one issue responsible for the damage to Subaru engines is the free software available on the internet to modify the tuning parameters within the ECU. There is plenty of bad advice going around but the most common one I hear is "the bigger or looser the piston or bearing clearances, the better the engine will perform." Another is about larger pressure/volume oil pumps are always better because the factory oiling system on the EJ motors are inadequate, when in fact, a high-pressure oil pump can cause oil cavitation while lowering the ability for any oiling system to work efficiently. Another falsified fact is using a lower-temp thermostat will make your motor run cooler in hot weather but in reality it will have zero effect on increasing your engine's cooling capability. Other falsified facts include tuners believing that installing 1mm oversized intake and/or exhaust valves over the stock size valve seats will increase cfm airflow, and the best of all that makes me laugh every time I hear it is "you can make 500 whp safely on pump gas."

Read more: Page 3: The Truth Behind The Subaru EJ-Series Engines - Crawford Performance - Tech-Knowledge - Import Tuner Magazine

RJ999 · #**1074** 17-01-2014, 06:24 PM

more gold!

If there's some magical formula on how to properly build an EJ engine, chances are our top tuners have found it! Follow along as they offer a simple how-to guide to help point you in the right direction whether you're planing on building a 300 whp, 400 whp, 500 whp, or 500+ whp engine.

Quirt Crawford Of Crawford Performance

300 whp: To obtain this horsepower level, the EJ motor only requires an upgraded intercooler, larger sized fuel injectors, and a retune of the ECU-no internal engine modifications are required. We highly recommend the use of an air/oil separator (AOS) on any turbocharged EJ motor to eliminate oil from coating both the intake tract and the inside of the intercooler, which causes a reduction in cooling efficiency that can cause detonation.

400 whp: There are no internal engine modifications needed at this power level. The car would need a larger turbo, intercooler, fuel injectors, fuel pump, AOS, and retune of the ECU.

500 whp: At his point, we suggest replacing the OE rods with a set of stronger, aftermarket forged rods, along with forged pistons, head studs, and the external components listed under 400 whp.

500+ whp: The same engine components are needed in the 500-whp package but you will probably need a larger turbo, and of course, proper tuning.

Read more: Page 3: The Truth Behind The Subaru EJ-Series Engines - Crawford Performance - Tech-Knowledge - Import Tuner Magazine

DukeDrifter · #**1075** 17-01-2014, 06:24 PM

Just speak to Doug and your tuner, they will give you all the advice you need. they > internet mechanic's

Cat · #**1076** 17-01-2014, 06:25 PM

Opened up this thread thinking there must be heaps of bargains.......I am dissapoint

RJ999 · #**1077** 17-01-2014, 06:29 PM

Albert And Robert Bonamici Of Auto Master AMR

300 whp: The EJ20/EJ25 engines can handle 300 whp maximum with stock internals with no further modifications other than a proper fuel management tune.

400 whp: We suggest a set of forged AMR pistons and billet rods to safely boost up the engine.

500 whp: The same components previously mentioned in the 400-whp package but also include our AMR 9/16-inch "Big Boy" head studs, AMR plate hone, and O-ring the block to increase sealing of the heads to the cylinder block.

500+ whp: Previously mentioned items with the addition of a line-hone to ensure proper bearing clearances, AMR billet crankshaft, and ductile iron sleeves for additional cylinder strength.

Paul Yim And Paul Leung Of Yimi Sport

300 whp: No modifications are required to the stock block, assuming all the bolt-on parts and ECU tuning are working in harmony.

400 whp: For an EJ205, you should be doing a basic build on the block that would include forged pistons, rods, good bearings, and head studs. Obviously, quality machine work and tight tolerances/quality control are crucial. For an EJ255 and EJ257, all the block needs is a set of forged pistons. 400 whp (particularly on 91 octane pump gas) is when cylinder pressures are high enough that a random knock event can take out the stock pistons. The rest of the internals are more than up to the task. for real???

500 whp: We suggest adding forged rods, aftermarket rod and main bearings, and ARP head studs to the EJ25 along with making sure that the oiling system and cooling system are in 100 percent operating order.

500+ whp: For over 550 whp, we recommend sleeving the block, as the stock sleeves can become a failure point. For really high-horsepower applications, pinning the mains and oversized head studs and/or an O-ringed cylinder head may become necessary.

RJ999 · #**1078** 17-01-2014, 06:33 PM

Best one yet

Q: "Forum specialists" who offer bad advice on how to build engines are flooding the internet. What sort of bad advice have you heard from customers or read on the forums that made you cringe?

A: We at Crawford Performance will start this by stating the number one issue responsible for the damage to Subaru engines is the free software available on the internet to modify the tuning parameters within the ECU. There is plenty of bad advice going around but the most common one I hear is "the bigger or looser the piston or bearing clearances, the better the engine will perform." Another is about larger pressure/volume oil pumps are always better because the factory oiling system on the EJ motors are inadequate, when in fact, a high-pressure oil pump can cause oil cavitation while lowering the ability for any oiling system to work efficiently. Another falsified fact is using a lower-temp thermostat will make your motor run cooler in hot weather but in reality it will have zero effect on increasing your engine's cooling capability. Other falsified facts include tuners believing that installing 1mm oversized intake and/or exhaust valves over the stock size valve seats will increase cfm airflow, and the best of all that makes me laugh every time I hear it is "you can make 500 whp safely on pump gas."

Read more: The Truth Behind The Subaru EJ-Series Engines - Tech-Knowledge - Import Tuner Magazine

RJ999 · #**1079** 17-01-2014, 06:34 PM

Allright time to stop spamming this thread...
See a couple of pages back..bargains

Quote:

Originally Posted by subaru4eva93

Opened up this thread thinking there must be heaps of bargains.......I am dissapoint

Soksta · #**1080** 17-01-2014, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RJ999

Allright time to stop spamming this thread...

You can spam, just use the edit button to spam in the one post

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RJ999 (17-01-2014)